At 0430, a faint glow appeared on the horizon. Not the sun — it was still an hour from dawn — but the steady beam of the Tower of Hercules, sweeping its ancient light across the approaches to A Coruña.
The Crossing
Sixty-two hours from La Rochelle to A Coruña. The Biscay crossing delivered everything we’d hoped for: settled weather, a steady breeze, and seas that let us cook proper meals and sleep in reasonable comfort.
By the Numbers
| Metric | Value |
|---|---|
| Distance sailed | 348 nm |
| Time underway | 62 hours |
| Average speed | 5.6 kts |
| Max wind | 22 kts (night 2) |
| Fuel used | 80 L (motoring in the calm) |
Night Watches
The second night brought the most magic. Somewhere around 44°N, the shipping lanes behind us, the sky exploded with stars. No moon, no light pollution, just the Milky Way arching from horizon to horizon. Phosphorescence lit up our wake in electric blue.
A Coruña
Marina Coruña welcomed us with helpful dock hands and a secure berth. After tying up, we walked the waterfront to the Tower of Hercules — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the world’s oldest working Roman lighthouse.
Then: pulpo á feira and cold Estrella Galicia at a harbour-side restaurant. After three days at sea, there’s nothing quite like the first meal ashore.
Recovery Plan
We’ll spend two nights here. The boat needs a freshwater wash, the crew needs solid sleep, and the Rías Baixas — the fjord-like bays of Galicia — are waiting just around Cabo Finisterre.
Biscay: crossed. Phase 1: complete.
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